Timur feasts in the environs of Samarkand. Illustration from Zafarnama. Samarkand, 17th century/Alamy
Central Asia, the cradle of ancient traditions and a crossroads of diverse ideologies, cultures, and beliefs, has long captivated the imagination of travelers from both near and far. Through their detailed notes and vivid reflections, they have, for centuries, offered a unique, albeit not always impartial, glimpse into the rich mosaic of life in this region: bustling bazaars, nomadic customs, and enduring cultural heritage. In this series of articles, Qalam presents excerpts from their accounts and memories, spanning different eras and revealing the many facets of Central Asia.
Today, we present the observations of Ruy González de Clavijo, the Spanish ambassador of King Henry III of Castile, who visited the court of Amir Timur.
In 1404, Spanish diplomat Ruy González de Clavijo traveled to the court of the great Turco-Mongol conqueror Amir Timur. Naturally, Europeans sought to establish friendly relations with the victor over the Ottoman Sultan Bayezid. As customary, Clavijo left behind notes from his journeyi
The arrival of the Castilian envoy led by Don Clavijo. Folio from the Malfuzat-i Timuri, Mughal, 19th century/British Library
At Timur's receptions, the Spaniard could not overlook the traditions of local hospitality and feasting. The nature of these traditions seems to be adapted to the participants, most of whom were Turkic nomads—the very foundation of Timur's military power.
As soon as these ambassadors, and many others, who had come from distant countries, were seated in order, they brought much meat, boiled, roasted, and dressed in other ways, and roasted horses; and they placed these sheep and horses on very large round pieces of stamped leather. When the lord called for meat, the people dragged it to him on these pieces of leather, so great was its weight; and as soon as it was within twenty paces of him, the carvers came, who cut it up, kneeling on the leather. They cut it in pieces, and put the pieces in basins of gold and silver, earthenware and glass, and porcelain, which is very scarce and precious.
Page from the manuscript of Clavijo’s Diary. 15th century. National Library of Spain, Madrid / Wikimedia Commons.
Moreover, Clavijo mentions the most popular dish at the court of Timur. The recipe, however, strongly resembles what we often tend to call beshbarmaq:
The most honorable piece was a haunch of the horse, with the loin, but without the leg, and they placed parts of it in ten cups of gold and silver. They also cut up the haunches of the sheep. They then put pieces of the tripes of the horses, about the size of a man's fist, into the cups, and entire sheep's heads, and in this way they made many dishes. When they had made sufficient, they placed them in rows. Then some men came with soup, and they sprinkled salt over it, and put a little into each dish, as sauce; and they took some very thin cakes of corn, doubled them four times, and placed one over each cup or basin of meat. Then some men came with soup, and they sprinkled salt over it, and put a little into each dish, as sauce; and they.
The custom of sharing meat with the guests closely mirrors sarqyti
As soon as this was done, the Meerzas and courtiers of the lord took these basins, one holding each side, and one helping behind (for a single man could not lift them), and placed them before the lord, and the ambassadors, and the knights who were there; and the lord sent the ambassadors two basins, from those which were placed before him, as a mark of favour. When this food was taken away, more was brought; and it is the custom to take this food, which is given to them, to their lodgings, and if they do not do so, it is taken as an affront; and so much of this food was brought, that it was quite wonderful.